When I was writing my newspaper column, I got an email from
a reader who said he didn’t like French food.
It seems he’d been to Montreal and gotten a bad meal. I told him French Canadians are French the
way I’m English. I have English
ancestors, and I speak the English language, although not the same way the
English do. The food ways of my culture
have strayed from those traditional in England. I don’t eat bangers and mash or
spotted dick.
Having been in the business, I know writers are oppressed by
deadlines and under pressure to find something to say. When I read that driving to Montreal is like
visiting Paris without the airfare, I roll my eyes. They speak French in Montreal, but Paris it
ain’t.
In Canada French cooking is an imported cuisine the same way
it is in Boston or Dallas. Like my
reader, I’ve had some disappointments.
On my latest visit, I hit the jackpot because I chose a local delicacy
for which the city has become known – smoked beef.
I had some time waiting for a train and made my way to Reuben’s
Delicatessen at 1116 Rue
Sainte-Catherine Ouest. Behind the counter a man was hand cutting pink slices
of succulent beef which are stacked on bread and served with fries. You can get the regular, which is mountainous,
or you can get the large.
The meat is
tender, juicy and flavorful, and I found I could eat more than I thought at f
first. In fact I recommend Reuben’s for
a Montreal lunch, and would go there again for the same meal. The flavor of the beef is slightly spicy and
lightly smoked. As a native Canadian
delicacy, I give it top rating.
For dessert get
the cheesecake. It is lighter than the New York style and easy to eat after
stuffing yourself on a sandwich.
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