The Jews,
the schools, and the auto companies all have the right idea. The year begins in the fall. The cooling of the weather puts you in the
mood to restart your life. Naturally I’m
making resolutions. One is that I’ll
keep the freezer and refrigerator full of material for good homemade soups.
I made a
batch of chicken broth. Old cooks say
that you can’t make chicken soup properly without the feet so when I’m near a
Chinese market I buy a pound of them to keep on hand, but my supply was a
little outdated, and a freezer burned chicken foot is not a pretty thing. I omitted them in this latest batch. I got
two family packs of drumsticks on sale and put them in a tall pot with parsley,
celery, onion (including the skin for color) carrot, and peppercorns. I added no salt; it can be put in later if
needed. Why you have to pay extra for salt-free chicken broth in the store, I
couldn’t say.
I simmered
the stock slowly for about six hours, occasionally taking off the gray scum that rises to the top. Then I cooled the stock in the
refrigerator. When it was cold, I
skimmed the fat from it and froze it in two-cup portions in Zip-Lock bags. I recommend the name brand product for this because
the store brand bags tend to leak. Remember
to label and date the bags before you start filling them.
Chicken
stock is a useful ingredient to have on hand.
With it you can make a soup out of almost anything, and it will have
that long simmered flavor. You can use
it in sauces, casseroles, and stir fries.
I make beef stock as well, but chicken is more versatile. Stocks you make yourself are better and
cheaper than those you buy in the supermarket.
Today I made
fish stock. This used to be easier because all fish markets cut their own fish,
and you had only to get there early in the morning before they threw away the
bones. Now you have to order them, and
they’re no longer free, but this morning I found myself in Brant Rock having
breakfast at my favorite restaurant, Arthur and Pats. I popped over to Brant Rock Fish Market
because its owner, Henry Dunbar, still cuts his fish.
My fish
stock recipe is based on that of Jasper White.
I admire him as a chef, and have never gone wrong with his cookbooks,
but I started breaking the rules while I was still in Brant Rock. I got two cod frames, or racks as Dunbar
calls them. White says cod makes an
inferior stock, but he uses his stock for delicate sauces that might be
overpowered by the stronger flavor of cod.
I use mine mostly for chowder, and I want the heartier taste.
White tells
you to trim off all the skin, but the same old time housewife who insists on
using chicken feet says you can’t make good chowder without the head so I put
it in the pot. After that I followed the
recipe pretty closely.
I cut up a
leek, an onion, two peeled carrots, and three stalks of celery. I melted two tablespoons of butter in the
bottom of my stock pot and sweated the vegetables along with some parsley. I think White calls for six parsley stems,
but I like parsley so I tore a handful off the bunch and threw it in the
pot. I’m a little bit haute cuisine and
a little bit rock and roll.
I also used
more fresh thyme than he called for on the theory that all this flavorful cod
can stand up to more herbs than flounder.
I’m not going for nuance, I want bold flavor. I tossed in two bay leaves and a handful of
peppercorns.
When you
sweat vegetables and herbs you don’t sauté them. You turn the heat down and let them loll
around in the melted butter over low heat until they give up some of their
flavor. One rack weighed three pounds,
which was the amount the recipe called for.
I cut it into small pieces and put it in with a cup of white wine.
Will my
chowder have the flavor of wine? Not
really, and you can leave it out and use water.
I had a bottle of vermouth in the refrigerator. It makes a great cooking
wine and is handy when you’re in the mood for a martini.
This wine
settled down among the sweaty vegetables and made a fragrant steam that gently
cooked the fish. After a few minutes I
covered the fish bones with water and brought it to a boil. I skimmed the
surface and then turned it down to a simmer.
You can simmer chicken stock all day, but ten minutes is all White
recommends for fish stock, and that’s what I gave it. Then you let it sit for ten minutes
more. Don’t walk away and read a book
during this operation. Big flavor is
great, but it can be overdone.
We poured
the stock through a fine strainer. I say
“we” because it’s a good idea to have a helper hold the strainer while you
wrestle with the heavy pot. The bowl of
stock went into the refrigerator to cool before freezing. For some reason, Annette prefers plastic freezer
containers over bags for fish stock.
The nights
are getting colder, but I’m ready to warm body and soul on dark winter
evenings. Annette will use the stock to
simmer a haddock or cod fillet cut into chunks, adding potatoes, onions, salt
pork and whatever else her recipe calls for. She adds milk at the last minute. A
grind of pepper, a sprinkle of fresh thyme leaves, and a pat of melting butter,
and I won’t wish it was summer -- at least not as much.