I was an early fan of Jasper White.
I traveled to Boston to eat at Jasper’s, his dazzling restaurant on
Atlantic Avenue. I still swear by his
book, Jasper White's Cooking from New England. When he opened Summer Shack in
Cambridge I made the trek and found it huge, cold in atmosphere, and mediocre
in cuisine. I love real seafood shacks,
and White’s version wasn’t even close.
When they opened a Summer Shack
at the Derby Street Shops in Hingham I kept trying it. After all, I thought,
it’s owned by Jasper White, surely he’ll bring it around. I had some good fish there, but never an
entire meal without a serious flaw. The restaurant deserved to close and
did.
The good news is that it has been
replaced by Legal C Bar. Okay, it’s a
dumb name, and the sparkly sign looks like it belongs on a used car lot. The atmosphere inside might be better when
the places is full. It’s a large dim room
devoid of charm, and it was nearly empty when we were there for lunch on a
Tuesday. Never mind that; the food was outstanding.
It’s a new concept by Legal
Seafood. I’ve always found their
restaurants dependable. I’ve never had
fish that wasn’t fresh and well-prepared.
That’s saying a lot. Where else
would you eat at Logan Airport or bring an out-of-towner for scrod? A lovely piece of fresh fish, perfectly cooked
is exciting enough for the likes of me, but Legal Seafood never went for glitz.
Until now.
For lunch Annette had fried Malpeque oysters
from Prince Edward Island with a seaweed salad.
You squeezed a fresh lime wedge over a mixture of salt and cinnamon and
dipped each oyster into it. Cinnamon on
oysters? It not only worked; it made your taste buds snap to attention and
salute. It’s a marvelous thing to go to lunch when you’re shopping and get a
dish that gives you something pleasant to think about for the rest of the
week.
I
had the signature crab cake. It was made
of lump crabmeat that was not overdone.
In fact it was like a warm crab salad just stuck under the salamander
long enough to brown it a little. It was
moist and flavorful and came with a sprightly green salad. I got a side of onion strings that were expertly
done. To drink, Annette enjoyed a perky
rosé wine, and I had a draft Fisherman’s Ale from the Cape Ann Brewing
Company.
Annette
got a side of sautéed Swiss chard that was a little too chewy. This was the only flaw, and I must admit
underdone greens are fashionable. The
chard was garlicky and studded with toasted pine nuts. I think the dish was the way it was supposed
to be; it just wasn’t to my taste.
For
dessert we shared a banana bread pudding that was sweet and tasty. This was particularly pleasing after the
disastrous desserts we suffered at Summer Shack. We got a wedge of blueberry pie there that is enshrined in our all-time pastry hall of
shame. I must add that the coffee at
Legal C was so good I’m still thinking about how it tasted. I must also commend Mary Ellen our server,
who was helpful and charming.
I’m
recommending Legal C Bar to you and anyone else who will listen. I think you’ll find the daring dishes aren’t
just gimmicky, they’re well thought out.
If you’re not the sort to take risks, there is plenty of plainer fare
backed by Legal Seafood’s well-known dependability.